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Making D&D: Dwarven Thrower

This blog is an extension of my Youtube video showing how to build your own Dwarven Thrower from D&D. Not only are the bonuses for this magical item amazing for fighting giants but it looks super cool.

If you wanted to layout for this piece, here is a free download of the layout. You will have to print it out in tiles to get it to print out the exact size.

Let's start making!

Tools Used:

Build Supplies:

>1/2" PVC Pipe, Matching Cross PVC Fitting >PVC Glue

>6mm-10mm EVA foam sheet (Used 6mm Foam from TNT Cosplay - >2mm Foam Scraps for Details (Can get anywhere: TNT Cosplay, Amazon, Joanns, and Michaels)

>Weldwood Contact Cement or other Contact Cement

>Box Cutter Knife - I use this one: >Extra Blades:

>PDF Layout >Silver Sharpie >Fill (Prop Monkey Product) OR Flexible Filler from Local Hardware Store

Safety Supplies: >Dust Mask or Respirator >Nitrile Gloves (If you are allergic to latex, like me!) >Safety Glasses >Ear Protection

Casting Gem Stone: >Smooth-on >Aluminite Two Part Resin >Gold Flakes >Green UV Reactive Powder from UniGlow Productions LLC

Paint Supplies: >Plastidip - Color: Black (3 coats) >Silver Flexible Paint (I used Silver Flexi Paint) >Gold Paint ( I used Handmade Modern Metallic 20K Gold BUT you have options!) >Assortment of Acrylic Paint - Colors used Brown, Black (HexFlex Black Paint), White (Flexi Paint) >Several Paintbrush sizes (Needed smaller one for details - The hobby store ones for Minifigures work great!)


Step One: Print out the Line Drawing

Download PDF and print out as a poster (I usually complete this through Adobe Acrobat).


Download PDF • 1.24MB

Step Two: Make Internal Structure with PVC and PVC Cement/Glue

Use the print out of the pdf to layout your structure. I set it up with a Cross PVC pieces in the middle of the head. My cut list was: 1 piece at 23", 2 pieces at 6 1/2" and 1 piece at 2 1/2". These measurements were to account for the exterior foam and the caps used.

TIP: When gluing together, put glue on the two pieces and do a quarter turn after they have been put together. It will ensure glue gets all over the PVC.

Step Three: Create base foam. Cut center rectangle and cut 45 Deg. Angle on both longer sides.

I started the build by figuring out how deep I wanted the center section to be. This is completely preference. I did the math and made myself come templates out of yardstick to make it easier to lay out.

Step Four: Make Exterior Caps

Next was the exterior caps which I wanted to have create the bevel down the the base. These were built to cap the sides of the center rectangle. Again, I created a template and then cut out a bunch at one time. My suggestion is to make the internal bends before the exterior. That way if you mess up the internal cuts, you haven't wasted a lot of time.

Tip: When creating those interior cuts, do a couple of test cuts to make sure you are not going to be cutting completely through your foam.

Step Five: Details (Soooo Many Details)

At this point, I was feeling great about the project but then I remembered all the details. The thickness of these details is really up to you. I will go through the thicknesses of how I made each of them but, you can change them to fit your aesthetic.

Center Frame and Mountain: Cut out of 5mm foam. I cut out the whole piece and then used it for both.

Side Details: Cut out of 2mm Foam. Made up of a strip not without the cut out and then a strip with cutouts.

Details at the Top of the Handle: Varying Eva Foam - Used half round foam strip

Details at the Base of the Handle: Each of those pieces was created custom tailored to the size of the handle. If you want more information on that, I can be more specific.

Step Six: Prep and Fill Gaps!!

Products Used:

Rapid Fill - Prop Monkey Studio or Flexible Filler sold at Local Hardware Store Sold at: TNT Cosplay

After sanding for days, apply filler (Either filler from Local Hardware store or Rapid Fill from TNT Cosplay). Let Dry, and then sand some more.

TIP: When working on a project like this, I sand the filler and then do a second pass with it. Yes, it takes more time but it always gives the best final surface.

Step Seven: Base with Primer and Second Coat

Supplies: Prime, and Fine Finish - Prop Monkey Studio

Link for Prime:


  1. Apply Base Coat - Prime by Prop Monkey Studio

  2. Apply Second Coat - Fine Finish by Prop Monkey

Step Eight: Spray with Plastidip (2 times)

One of the easiest steps. Spray the Hammer with Plastidip - I usually do two full coats and leave it for 24 hours to dry.

Step Nine: Paint it Silver

Paint the Silver Parts Silver. A couple of times to make the coat nice and beautiful.

Step Ten: Paint it Gold and Brown

Now to paint in the details. I like to do at least two coats for the gold on every project.

Step Eleven: Dwarven Runes and Casting Gem Stone (optional)

Dwarven Runes: I looked up the Dwarven Runes so that I could write a couple of phrases on the Hammer itself to personalize it. Used a Gold and Black Sharpie to draw them on.

Casting Gem Stone: I created a gem file to print on my resin printer and then created a mold with Smooth-on Mold Star 30.

Then I casted that mold with UV Reactive powder and Gold flakes within the resin. It tooks 24-48 hours for the resin to dry so, this method takes some time if you only have one mold. Please take care to complete this process with the proper safety equipment and away from pets.

Step Twelve: Weather it like it has a Long Backstory of Kicking Butt in Battle.

I love weathering because 1. you are almost complete with your project and 2. It just makes it look so good. I used Hex Paint for the weathering. I start with creating the weathering around the edges with watered down paint. Using brushes and towels that have textures help with the weathering. Weather with your heart.

Tip: Once you have done one pass of weathering, get up and walk around from your project for 5 minutes. Come back and you will either know where you need to add or that you need to stop.

Thank you for reading this guide. Happy Making!

For more:

To purchase a .stl kitbashed file version of the Dwarven Hammer for your RPG game, check out my Etsy store here:

If you would like your own finished Dwarven Hammer, click this link to my Etsy:

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